中国之城｜新疆伊宁：天山河谷中的一抹蓝

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新华社乌鲁木齐2月2日电　题：新疆伊宁：天山河谷中的一抹蓝

　　新华社记者古扎丽努尔

　　天山北麓的丰沛雪水，一路奔涌汇聚，在苍茫戈壁间冲刷出一片繁茂绿洲，孕育出闻名遐迩的伊犁河谷。而依偎在河谷中央的小城，便是伊宁。

　　漫步在喀赞其老城与六星街，满眼皆是浓郁的蓝，墙面、窗棂，就连路上的旅游马车，也尽染这片蓝。这里的群众偏爱用鲜亮的蓝色装点屋舍。

　　有人说，蓝色令人安静、沉稳，惊艳但不刺眼，正如这座城市的气质，静得下心，敞得开怀，也正如这座城市的生活，平和恬静，余韵悠长。

　　伊犁河谷三面环山，唯向西敞开一道“喇叭状”的豁口，造就伊犁河自东向西的罕见走向。著名作家汪曾祺在散文《伊犁河》中便以一句“人间无水不朝东，伊犁河水向西流”，描述了它的独特与传奇。

　　伊犁河穿城而过，49公里蜿蜒岸线滋养出伊宁“塞上江南”的独特风貌。站在河畔远眺，落日悬于水天尽头，霞光浸染整片河水，波光粼粼。沿岸湿地绵延，芦苇摇曳，时有白鹭惊飞，与远处楼宇共同勾勒出一幅悠然的河谷小城图景。

　　“伊犁河是伊宁人民的母亲河。”伊宁市水利局党组成员黄桂婷说，“它不仅支撑着全市农业生产，还保障着我们的城市生活、工业用水和生态补水。”近年来，当地持续推进两岸水工程建设，不断改善植被覆盖率，确保水质稳定达标，筑牢伊犁河生态基底。如今，两岸生态环境改善，生物多样性日益丰富，不仅是白鹤等候鸟的驿站，更成为无数动植物的家园。

　　河滋养了城，而桥连接着城的“前生今世”。

　　伊犁河大桥是伊宁第一座现代化桥梁。1975年，一座钢筋混凝土双曲拱桥在此落成，取代了原先仅供人畜通行的渡口木桥。大桥建成后，一度成为伊宁的标志性建筑，凡是初到伊宁的人，都会以它为背景留下珍贵的合影。直到今天，当地群众举办婚礼时，仍喜欢把这座老桥选为室外接亲的地点，延续着朴素而温暖的仪式感。

　　2020年，在保留老桥风格风貌的基础上，伊犁河大桥（新桥）建成通车，成为连贯南北的新枢纽，老桥作为景观保留。如今，伊犁河伊宁段有六座桥连接着南北两岸，也见证着这座城市的发展。

　　这里的建筑总是能给到访的游客留下深刻印象。著名的六星街社区，以六角形街巷而得名，六条主干道从中心广场向外辐射，恰似它多元共生的文化肌理。各族群众在此比邻而居，和谐共生。漫步六星街，庭院是显著的特色，沿街伫立的民居几乎家家带院，院里种植着各类绿植，屋顶错落有致，圆顶、尖顶、斜坡顶各有韵味，房檐、廊柱、窗楣或绘、或雕，各式图案花纹巧嵌其间，更添别致风情。

　　伊宁的蓝，更体现在生态上。

　　冬日，幽蓝天幕下，雾凇缀满枝丫，滔滔伊犁河水似一条蓝色缎带向远方铺展。在伊犁河旅游风景区，天鹅引颈、翩跹起舞，已成为一道别样风景。国家二级保护动物疣鼻天鹅尤其钟情这抹蓝，在伊犁河国家湿地公园芳草湖安了家，从候鸟变为了留鸟。

　　“啾啾——啾啾——”伊犁河畔晨雾缥缈，一只只水鸟张开双翅腾空而起，仿佛在歌唱美丽的家园……vk.com/topic-236142620_56905960

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